Imposta

Vedge Plate

I won’t say the pesto dollop (center) makes for the most appetizing visual presentation, but aside from that small detail, this one turned out to be an astonishingly tasty meal. We happily inherited a bushel of zucchini from my brother- and sister-in-law over the weekend. But beyond the usual suspects (zucchini bread, zucchini tempura, zucchini stir fry), I wanted to try something different, something I hadn’t tried before. I picked up a mandolin on Monday. Guess I’d been putting that off: mandolins are such a knifey contraption they incite every blade fear I’ve ever had. In fact, I think I may have cut myself writing that sentence.

With the mandolin properly calibrated to slice long, narrow strips from whatever is pressed across its surface, I set to running the zucchini (6-7 inch segments, unpeeled) against the blades 10-12 times or until the airy, seedy middle started to show. Three large zucchini later, I had a pile of “noodles.” Those went in the boiling water for one minute, 15 seconds, then strained, then shocked in cold water. Perfect. Spaghetti (er, zuccghetti? spaghini?) has never tasted this light, this fresh.

The photo doesn’t exude Italianicity as forcefully as Barthes’ panzani ad. Nevertheless, food’s burdens are always regional (even when they are elsewhe-regional), and with the abundance of zucchini around here this time of year, a flash-boiled pile of “noodles,” on display as above, having eaten them, connotes Michiganicity, even faintly, flavors from childhood Augusts I remember vividly or wish I could.

I Love You, Stewmorrow

The seasons are changing, so you need a new soup: Stewmorrow. Two reasons for
the name: 1.) There is more for tomorrow. Lots more. This afternoon I made a
batch the way my mother would have: cook to fill the sizes of the pots you are
working with, not the number of faces you are feeding. 2.) It is something to
look forward to, to anticipate. Only a day away, stewmorrow.

Here’s how you can make some for yourself next time you’re tired of the same
old cheese sandwiches day after day.

You’ll need

1 fist-sized onion, chopped
4 zuchinnis, quartered then sliced every ¼-in. or
less
4 large potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 cans northern white beans or cannellinis if you prefer them ( I don’t drain
them)
2 chicken breasts
chicken broth, 32 oz. carton
4 tbsp oregano flakes
2 dashes cayenne pepper powder
2 tbsp ground cumin
2 bay leaves
1 veg. bouillon cube
olive oil
salt, pepper

I’ve made it twice now, and I think that’s everything. First, cover the bottom
of the pot with water (just enough water to cover it thinly). Add the
whole chicken breasts, cover them lightly with olive oil, salt/pepper, and half
of the seasonings (oregano, cayenne, and cumin). Cover and cook on medium high
until the chicken is done all the way through. Add the onion and cook with
the lid off until the onions begin to clarify and even caramelize a little bit.
Remove the chicken breasts and let them cool.

Into the pot, add the chicken broth, cubed potatoes, zukes, the bouillon
cube, the bay leaves, and the other half of the seasonings. Bring to a low boil
for 15-20 mins, or until the potatoes are fork-soft. In the meantime, chop
the chicken into small bits and open the beans. After the potatoes have
softened, reduce the heat to low, and add the chicken and unrinsed beans. Next,
let it simmer for whatever time you have, at least 30 minutes.

Served it tonight with cheddar biscuits and apple slices, much to everyone’s
satislipsmackingfaction. I think of it as an unexpectedly savory mix between an
Italian wedding soup and white chili. Add more cayenne if you want the heat, but
at these rough measures Is. thought it was okay–not too hot for a tot.